Exploring South Africa’s Wild, Coast to Coast ^Featured

The flight is long: 16 hours one way (and 17 back). However, my excitement and anticipation helped make it seem much faster, so that before I knew it, I had landed in Johannesburg.

Instead of racing for a connecting flight, I had opted to spend one night at the Fairlawns Boutique Hotel and Spa. The property is small and secluded, with opulent, chic suites rich in amenities, including en-suite fireplaces that make you feel at home for a day, a week or a month. Of course, after a long flight, who wouldn’t want to take advantage of the spa, which offers a long list of rejuvenating treatments, or spoil oneself at the onsite Amuse Bouche Restaurant or Manor House Bistro?

The next morning, as much as I didn’t want to leave, I traveled on to the northeastern part of South Africa, where highways and roads became more rugged, asphalt turned to earth and congregations of buildings gave way to fields of green and forests of eucalyptus sprawled over rolling hills. It was hot. The term “Africa hot” (not to mention “remote”) took on new meaning as we navigated long, dirt roads bordering a 10-foot-tall electrified fence. On the other side was what looked like a scene of Armageddon: scorched vegetation that appeared to be caused by a raging forest fire. However, there was no fire. This was the result of a severe drought at the Sabi Sabi Private Game Reserve at Kruger National Park, where the real adventure was about to begin.

We drove through the gates, which looked eerily similar to the entrance of Jurassic Park, and headed over to Earth Lodge, one of the top boutique hotels in the world at which to stay if you’re looking for a private African safari. The road ended. There was a small sign that said “Earth Lodge,” yet there was no “lodge” to be seen. At that moment, it occurred to me that there were no fences, no walls, nothing that would prevent a lion from pouncing on me! There was only a small walkway that descended and seemed to disappear. Earth Lodge was beneath me. I sped up the pace, walking towards the entry, seeking the safety and comfort of the lobby. As I entered, I noticed a vast openness with a priceless view that not only overlooks the reserve but is part of it so that you become one with your surroundings. With only 12 überluxury suites, it’s an exclusive sanctuary in the African savanna with a divine restaurant. Each room has amazing views, where wild animals walk right up to your personal plunge pool and take a drink. 

Safety was the primary concern. As none of the animals are domesticated, the staff require you to be escorted at night to and from your room. On my visit, a leopard was perched on the roof of one of the suites, while seven elephants, a rhino and a baby hippo all came up to introduce themselves. However, at no time did I feel any sense of danger at the resort.

Shortly after I arrived, they were calling me and four other guests for the first of five private safari tours in an open air jeep. One benefit of the drought is the lack of vegetation, allowing us to see animals in the distance that would have ordinarily been hidden.

On any African safari, they tell you to look out for the big five: lion, Cape buffalo, leopard, rhino and elephant. In no time at all, we were embedded in their world and only feet away from the wildlife. There was virtually nothing between us, baboons and monkeys. Frequently we were parked, often with the engine off, while a rhino and her curious baby would stroll past. We would be looking over the edge of a ravine at a leopard only 10 feet away, watching as it guarded its prey from a hungry hyena. The animals would simply observe the vehicle, and as long as we sat still and didn’t make noise, we could expect to be safe.

At one point, we had also spotted two Cape buffalo, one of which was missing a horn. Later, as we made our way back to the lodge, we saw them again. The jeep stopped, and the engine was shut off. That’s when I saw it. To my left, eight lions were locked in a dead stare, stalking and drooling. They moved slowly and patiently, as the hunt was on. We were the only thing between the lions and the buffalo. I was seated alone in the back of the jeep. Two of the lions had positioned themselves next to us, while a third stole around the vehicle to corner the buffalo. As I pointed my camera, one lioness was only 15 feet away, staring at me contemplatively, when she finally started to move towards me. All I could hear was the slight sound of the twigs breaking, as she moved through the brush. My heart was racing, and I wondered whether I suddenly appeared to be more appetizing than the buffalo. The lion stopped just 1 foot away from me, too close for me to even capture on camera. Suddenly, two members of the pride took off. Immediately, the buffalo started to run. Out of nowhere, another lion came round and cornered the buffalo. The buffalo just couldn’t resist. With one lion on its back, another grabbed it by its neck and took it down. It was both frightening and sad, yet amazing to watch; this was nature and the circle of life. Our guide said,

National Geographic will spend a month with us and not see something like this."

As the buffalo lay victim, a calm seemed to blanket the area. The other lions strolled in, some taking positions as lookouts. Then, as if mom had rung the dinner bell, a line of cubs came marching in to join the family for a meal.

The sun had set, and we drove a mile before stopping in a clearing. After a scan to make sure there were no predators about, our guides set up wine and tapas for us to enjoy while stargazing at an uninterrupted sky.

The next stop on the adventure was Cape Town, located in the western part of South Africa. I checked into the Taj, an exquisite five-star hotel transformed from an historic bank, retaining and incorporating some of the original architectural details. The rooms are spacious and well appointed, with some offering balconies overlooking the city, the ocean and the famed Table Mountain. 

The city itself reminded me a lot of San Francisco. Its waterfront dotted with luxury retailers, high-end hotels and restaurants, it has a bustling nightlife, which starts with a sunset that looks as if it were painted.

Over on the eastern coast, in Umhlanga, we headed to the Oyster Box Hotel, situated on the turquoise Indian Ocean. Its parking lot was filled with exotic cars, from Lamborghini to Roll Royce. Each of the hotel’s 86 suites and villas is designed with its own unique décor that enhances the property’s colonial beauty.

On the veranda, while guests are sipping high tea or dining al fresco, it’s not uncommon for a friendly monkey to pop up and pose for a photo (while his friend steals the sugar packet off the table). In the evening, delectable dishes and desserts adorn long tables, looking more like a display of art rather than selections of cuisine that satisfy even the most discriminating of palates.

  The last leg of this amazing adventure landed us in St. Lucia. No, this wasn’t the island in the Caribbean but rather a small residential village north of Umhlanga. Here, we wound down by staying at the St. Lucia Guest House, a small B&B.

I spoke with the owner, who let me in on St. Lucia’s charm:

At night the hippos walk around the neighborhood.

Knowing that hippos hold the number one spot for attacking humans, I quickly mapped out in my head the quickest route of egress, should I attempt to wander the streets at night for a sighting of a hungry, hungry hippo.

“Yeah, we had one in our pool over there. They can run pretty fast.”

Those last words canceled any midnight strolls around the neighborhood that I may have been contemplating.

Nevertheless, I would soon see for myself, as we journeyed up the river and encountered families of hippos, some only inches away from our boat. They seemed docile, “seemed” being the key word. But they would eagerly show off their wide mouths with razor sharp teeth, as a kind reminder of who is actually in charge.

Having traveled often to some incredible destinations, I had no expectation of what to really expect. From coast to coast, South Africa is alive, rich in culture and tourism, with adventures that need to be experienced and added to any bucket list.

 This article was writing for Newsday's Luxury Living.