Sat Sep 15

Insignia Steakhouse

Written by Venus Quintana
Published in Restaurants
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Earns it's badge in Smithtown!

While the saying goes, “the grass is always greener on the other side” – it ultimately depends on what side you are on. As a resident of Nassau County for well over a decade, I have always seen the grass as being lusher than its counterpart. With a myriad of fine restaurants and attractive lounges, one never has to look too far for an amazing dining experience. While this remains to be true, I also believe that great things are worth waiting (and traveling) for. Insignia Steakhouse in Smithtown had beckoned me and, like a hungry pilgrim, I took the lengthy trip into unknown territory.

At Insignia, prolific restaurateur Anthony Scotto brings his second signature twist to Suffolk County and receives a worthy seal of approval. Following in the success of Blackstone Steakhouse in Melville and Rare 650 in Syosset, Insignia pushes the envelope in the culinary world of steak and sushi. The sprawling 11,000-square-foot restaurant artfully combines eye-catching designs and textured walls with wood, stone and leather interiors. Reminiscent of a rustic, Hamptons-style mansion complete with cedar shakes, quarried stone and a striking turret, Insignia fuses the energetic vibe of Manhattan with an authentic ‘East End’ feel, setting the scene for a most dramatic experience.

On entering the main dining room, my eyes were drawn instantly to a bi-level glass wine room that seemed to be floating in mid-air. Beautifully studded, over-sized banquettes line the room’s parameter, allowing for a perfect view of the sparkling sushi bar with cascading ice-cube sculptures hanging above. Every wall showcases a different texture and design, including a floor-to-ceiling sculpted stone relief of a beach scene; a true feast for the eyes.

Insignia’s pièce de résistance is the colossal bar and lounge, framed with striking white marble walls, allowing access to the outdoor patio – an attractive oasis perfect for alfresco dining.

Insignia’s kitchen is guided by Executive Chef Mikhail Apelsinov, who also headed the culinary operations at Rare 650. The transition to Scotto’s latest steakhouse incarnation has allowed Apelsinov to bring new, more creative ideas to the table, blending together classic dishes with new twists. On this particular night, Apelsinov showed his creative abilities through an impromptu tasting I requested, which turned out to be nothing short of magnificent. Seven courses flowed in a perfect unison of manageable portions.

To begin, a colorful sushi plate dazzled us with an assortment of “Supreme” rolls, including the “Surf & Turf” made with king crab, steamed lobster and topped with Kobe steak, and the “Mexican,” a combination of spicy tuna and lobster accented with a chipotle mango sauce. Another notable appetizer was the pan-seared sea scallop, perfectly cooked and served over butternut squash, porcini mushrooms and water chestnuts with a balsamic reduction - well balanced in texture and flavor.

Among the entrée dishes, the miso-glazed Chilean sea bass took my breath away. The moist and fragrant fish resting on a bed of forbidden rice topped with shitake mushrooms, was a sure winner. Out of the endless list of meat choices, we were presented with a boneless sirloin steak that had been dry-aged for 32 days - outstanding! The juniper-crusted venison chop was divinely cooked over black figs in a white truffle honey sauce.

Just as I was about to put a fork in myself for being overdone, a magnificent dessert platter had me salivating once again. The “Chocolate Wow,” also served at Rare 650, took chocolate combinations to another level while the warm cinnamon donuts had me at hello; they were light, golden brown and buttery, accented with a raspberry sauce. French pressed coffee and a chance to breathe again, wrapped up this amazing feast that was ultimately worth the trip!

Insignia has successfully stamped itself onto Suffolk County’s culinary canvas, and Anthony Scotto has proved once again, that the best things in life may not always be free, but are certainly worth waiting for.

Insignia Prime Steak and Sushi

610 Nesconset Highway, Smithtown

631.656.8100

www.insigniasteakhouse.com

Open for dinner daily

Reservations are highly recommendedThis article appears in 25A magazine. www.25amagazine.com