The Gateway to a Lost Civilization Featured
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Cusco & Machu Picchu, Peru
When traveling, there is always a bit of prep time built in. For me, it’s generally packing 10 minutes before I have to head out the door.
But for my most recent trip, prep would have to start a week before I left.
I don’t want to scare anyone away from this adventure. If you’re going to the tropics, bring suntan lotion and bug spray; if you’re going skiing, dress warm. If you’re going to Cusco in Peru, prepare for the altitude.
Start by drinking lots of water. Get plenty of rest. Eat light meals and more carbs than usual. Oh, and of course, don’t smoke. That last caveat would normally be difficult for me but I came down with the flu the week of Thanksgiving, so quitting kind of just happened.
Our journey in Cusco started after a one-night stay in Lima. At 11,500 feet above sea level, Cusco is considered a high-altitude city. A common misconception is that there is a lack of oxygen at these altitudes. Well, yes and no. There is always 21 percent oxygen in the air but the air is less dense and therefore the pressure changes.
It came as no surprise to learn that Cusco is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Long before the arrival of the Incas in the 13th century, Cusco had been well established and there is evidence everywhere you look around the city. Its status helps the city retain its history but in some ways makes it more difficult to modernize. Construction and renovations can be very restrictive because of UNESCO standards. On my visit I stayed at the JW Marriott. Unlike other hotels that I have stayed at, including other JW Marriotts, this one could easily be missed; as you walk along the cobblestone streets, it blends seamlessly into the city’s architectural past.
The hotel is built upon the ruins of the 16th century San Agustin Convent. The challenge the builders faced was constructing a modern day hotel without disturbing the existing property or taking away from the exterior appearance of the surrounding buildings. What they created was a perfect mix of past and present. A hidden treasure blended with beauty and luxury with a modern lifestyle tucked away in a city rich in culture. From the outside, what you see is a stone structure lined with archways that lead you to the massive lobby doors into a dimly lit lobby surrounded by stone and thousands of crystals dangling behind the check-in desk. The interior has an historic feel to it, as it should. The hotel did an excellent job keeping with the architectural style of the previous structure, making sure it was the perfect fit.
In the center of the hotel is a huge courtyard. At the time of my visit, the court was transformed into a 300-person festival complete with acrobats, live music and plenty of food, wine and dancing, something that the JW’s onsite 5-star restaurant handled with ease. This was no surprise as Cusco is known for its cuisine and around every corner there are incredible restaurants that can please even the most demanding appetite.
While the courtyard allowed for great entertainment, what was beneath it was astonishing. Taking the elevator to the basement of a hotel is typically not part of the tour. But at the JW in Cusco, it’s a must. When building the hotel, the crews uncovered Inca ruins, something that is not rare in this area. While for most construction jobs this would cause a big problem, for the JW it was an opportunity to preserve the find in a temperature-controlled environment.
Just beyond the Incan relics is the JW’s health club spa complete with a small indoor pool, jacuzzi, sauna and of course, massages, scrubs, wraps, manicures and more.
There are two things that really stood out at this particular hotel. First was the staff’s greeting: “Welcome, sit, relax … take it slow.” The temperature was in the 40s when we arrived and the staff walked us over to the lounge where we sat by the warm fireplace and drank some coca tea. The coca tea helps prevent altitude sickness. The staff’s first concern was to make sure we were comfortable and acclimated but their attention didn’t stop there. Throughout the entire stay, they remembered people’s names, they remembered specific things individuals liked and most of all, they were incredibly friendly and accommodating.
The second thing that stood out was what was said next: “The oxygen is turned on in each of your rooms.” I had to think about that for a minute wondering if something had been lost in translation. But in addition to its water filtration system, the JW Marriott also has an oxygen system onsite that pumps O
2 right into your room. This was truly one of the most fascinating hotels I’ve ever experienced.
But you’re not in Cusco to spend all of your time inside. Located nearby are some very famous sites that demand a visit. A couple of blocks from the JW is the Plaza de Armas, a central square surrounded by shops and restaurants. The focal point is the Cathedral of Cusco. Unfortunately, I wasn’t allowed to take pictures inside. From the outside, it seems rather small, but that appearance, it turns out, is very deceiving. Built in the 1600s the cathedral is a perfect example of Gothic-Renaissance that is simply massive. Constructed of stone, some of which was transitioned from the Incan fortress Saksaywaman, you feel the strength as soon as you enter. The main altar, which was added in the 1700s, is made of silver and is just one of thousands of details embedded into the sacred building. Another must-see is Qurikancha. This was formerly an Incan temple dedicated to the Sun God where walls and floors were once covered in sheets of gold. The remaining ruins, enclosed within, are fascinating, to say the least. To see the incredible engineering accuracy of tightly interlocked stone is beyond belief. When the Spanish built the Church of Santo Domingo, which stands today along with the Convent of Santo Domingo, they built it on top of the original temple’s foundation and incorporated original Incan walls, due to their strength.
To get a real sense of the engineering, we took a ride to Saksaywaman (pronounced like ‘sexy woman’), which is about 15 minutes away. Here, located a few hundred feet above the city, are the remains of a walled city and the capital of the Incan Empire. Precision-cut boulders weighing tons were moved from a quarry not far from the site and placed together like a life-size Jenga puzzle, creating a fortress-like series of structures and retaining walls.
While this was impressive enough, it would be the next stop about which most people say, “Someday I’ll get to see it.” That adventure started on a 57-mile, 3-hour train ride. I must admit I had a preconceived notion of what a Peruvian train might be like. I had visions of an overpacked train and accommodations that included sitting on the roof or fighting with a chicken.
Luckily I was wrong. We would be taking the luxurious Peru Rail. I was very impressed with how well organized everything was. Each passenger was given an assigned seat and escorted by an attendant to his or her car. The cars had sky-view windows and first-class seating with dining tables and dining service.
The ride in itself was relaxing, with amazing views. The tracks hugged the landscape along a wild and at times raging Urubamba River. At one of the stops a number of passengers disembarked, grabbing their gear to start a long hike along the original Inca trail to our destination. Soon we were pulling into a station where we transferred to a bus and we continued up a long dirt road with hairpin turns hugging the cliffsides. I was occasionally white-knuckled but it would all be worth it.
Welcome to Machu Picchu.
Surreal is the first word that comes to mind. When you are dropped off at the visitors center, you don’t see the picturesque view that is so familiar. You walk a short distance and as you pass the first stone structure – there it is – as if someone opened a giant curtain and you were suddenly whisked into a fantasy world: a magnificent vastness covered in lavish shades of green cascading down the hillsides, perfectly manicured, with white mist slithering through mountaintops.
Built in the 15th century, this hidden city was abandoned after only 100 years (I’m guessing the walk up the mountain had something to do with that) and rediscovered in 1911 by Hiram Bingham III, who is believed to be the inspiration for Indiana Jones. After the mysticism has slightly worn off, you begin to realize the engineering masterpiece that was created by this civilization of astronomical experts. Nearly every window and every stone had some intentional purpose of placement to be exactly aligned to a star, the sun, or what-have-you to pinpoint the time of day, month and year. Machu Picchu is considered one of the New Seven Wonders of the World and words cannot describe what its like to see it up close and personal. Here you can spend an entire day walking, hiking, climbing and exploring the past of Incan history and culture. And since it’s about 3,300 feet lower then Cusco, it has a milder climate and you don’t need to worry as much about the affects of the altitude. But even if Cusco and Machu Picchu were at sea level, their sheer beauty and cultural heritage would still take your breath away.
For more information on the JW Marriott please visit www.marriott.com
Last modified onTuesday, 07 March 2017 10:53
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